We got the chance to stretch our legs during the 4-hour layover from Taipei to Hanoi. By then, the novelty of Duty Free and "sightseeing" within the confines of the airport were wearing off so we stayed at the gate and made conversation with the other Hanoi-bound passengers. There were several "Hanoi girls" in the waiting area and I noticed they spoke fast and were very lively --- qualities I would later recognize as the "Northern charm."
The connecting flight from Taipei to Hanoi was 2 hours, and as we landed in Hanoi's Noi Bai international airport, the mood became more solemn as we saw green-uniformed airport personnel. At customs, everyone separated into 2 lines, one for Viet kieu, or Vietnamese people living overseas, and one for other foreigners. One by one we stepped up to the window while the officials scrutinized our passports and gave us the entry stamp.

As soon as we passed through customs, I immediately went to exchange my cash. Since $1 USD = 16,000 dong, I presented $300 and received in return ... over 4 million dong.
I had been prepared for some mishaps in the taxi service that was supposed to pick us up at the airport and get us to our hotel, since this seems commonplace upon arriving in Vietnam, but everything went smoothly! I did notice, however, that as we pulled away from the curb at the airport, we were immediately honked by the car behind us ... and as I would soon find out, the honking is practically incessant in Hanoi from 5 am until midnight.
During the 30 km drive towards our hotel, the fields on both sides of the road were spotted with random advertisements and then gave way to little ponds. Then we crossed the bridge over the Song Hong (Red River) into Hanoi city limits. Here, we began to see the dusty little shops with faded canopies intermixed with tall buildings of the French colonial era. There seemed to be no street signs anywhere, so I had no idea where we were going ... until I realized that the signs are small and very low since most people in Vietnam use motorbikes.

Like many other tourists, we had booked a room in the Old Quarter, a crowded area full of shops where all the action in Hanoi is. As our van threaded its way through the narrow streets, I was surprised that it was able to dodge bikes and pedestrians coming from every direction. Although Vietnam drives on the right side of the road, this is just a general rule of thumb --- the real mantra is to drive where you can fit, and the right of way goes to whoever is in front of you, whether they are facing you, backwards, sideways, or upside down. Our taxi dropped us off in front of the Classic 2 hotel on Luong Ngoc Quyen St. I couldn't believe we were here because I never would've spotted it since it was wedged between a shop selling banh bao (pork buns) and a tourist agency. In the Old Quarter, the shops are narrow and wedged side by side so everything appears to blend together and it may be hard to find what you're looking for if your eyes aren't used to the sights.

Inside the hotel, the staff seemed very happy to see us and quickly ushered us into our room and showed us around. Although the people speak very fast in the North, they are courteous and seem eager to help. Since we'd arrived to our hotel around noontime, the rest of the day was spent exploring the Old Quarter and planning our trip to Ha Long Bay. I was a bit uncomfortable as we wandered the streets for the first time. Many of the shops seemed dilapidated, and people work and cook outside on the streets in conditions more unsanitary than I was used to. There seemed to be no sewage or waste disposal system but instead, people just throw garbage into heaps on the streets. However, after a few days, I did grow desensitized and realized that this is just what you have to expect while in Hanoi.

I couldn't believe many of the sights that passed before my eyes. For example, it is common to see vendors in the old-fashioned thin shirt and pants and conical hats walking around with produce carried over their shoulders. Although I had seen similar photographs of Vietnam, I had assumed these images to be rustic rather than commonplace. I soon learned that the streets in the Old Quarter are categorized according to what they sell, which makes them somewhat easier to navigate. For example, there is a street full of metal hardware such as doors and mirrors, while another street is teeming with shoes. Hang Bac offers a plethora of silver and gold jewelry, while on Cha Ca you can find toys (although why they don't sell the fish dish special to the region, which is what Cha Ca actually means, I don't know).

Although Hanoi appears noisy and hectic, there is a quaintness in the people and way of living. Since Hanoi is the capitol of Vietnam, tradition seems to be very important and this may be a reason why the people have more old-fashioned values. The people are neighborly with each other and almost everyone you speak with will treat you like an old friend although you are just asking for directions. We rounded out our first night in Vietnam by taking a walk around Lake Hoan Kiem after dinner. At nighttime, the lake is punctuated with illuminations from the Tortoise Tower, and provides a romantic getaway from the crowded and busy city ...