Moving Vietnamese Food Forward

Andrea Nguyen
New America Media
Editor's Note: Vietnamese cuisine has become mainstream in the geography of American taste and a new generation of young chefs are pushing the envelope to please an increasingly non-Vietnamese customer base.
At a Vietnamese cooking class that I recently taught, a student commented that the shrimp toast she was nibbling on needed something extra. Before I got the chance to suggest a sprinkling of salt, she’d made a pool of fish sauce, dipped the toast into the briny condiment, and deemed the morsel fabulous.
Her intuitive use of nuoc mam (fish sauce in Vietnamese) surprised me, mostly because she wasn’t Viet. I couldn’t have fathomed such a situation when my family arrived in America in 1975, when fish sauce wasn’t on any mainstream supermarket shelves. Nowadays, the discussion among foodies is which brand of nuoc mam is best. Bold, spicy flavors from all over the globe are in and the cuisine of Vietnam is hot. In fact, people I meet often proclaim, “I LOVE Vietnamese food!” and go on to describe it as fresh, delicious, and healthy — different than Chinese, Japanese, and Thai.


Andrew Lâm
Ngọc Thụy





